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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: 21' Class C
I might be able to provide some reference info.
In the late 80's I had a 1-Ton Chevy P/U with a 454 gas engine.
Running the truck empty I got maybe 10-12 mpg. With a slide-in Camper the MPG was about 8-10. With no camper but with a 26' closed car hauler (Camaro race car inside) about 7-9.
With the camper and the trailer about 7-8.
I think the biggest hit is the frontal area and total load. Aerodynamics do not play much of a part at speeds below 60. Yes they have an affect but not as much as simple frontal area and load.
Removing the cab over portion will not affect the frontal area at all.
I now have a new Freelander 2130QB and only have 3974 miles on it. Fuel has ranged from 9 to 12 mpg on individual tanks (Blue Ridge Pkwy, Smokeys & Shenadoa on one trip and hills of PA on our 2nd long trip) and total is 10.9 but is climbing as the new wears off and I learn how to drive. I expect to be seeing many tanks in the 11 to 13 range when I stay out of hills and mountains.
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Tireman9
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09/28/08 08:41pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Tire pressure dropped to 70lbs, will tires be ok?
How far do you need to drive to get to a garage with good air line? I see suggestions to unload, as much as reasonable. Keeping your speed down 45 ish with empty RV you should be ok for a few miles.
A question that wasn't asked was how old are the tires? If the rig has been parked for 2 years, on the tires, there may be some localized cracking. You should have them completely inspected by the tech at a store selling Toyo's.
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Tireman9
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09/16/08 08:45pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Alignment/Tire Balancing/Flat Spots
Tires can develop a "flat spot" if parked in a heavily loaded condition. It can take hundreds to thousands of miles to "work" the flat spot out and the ride to return to the original.
Tires can also develop a localized flat spot if the brakes are ever locked up. This can happen easily with unloaded rear tires on pick-ups.
You can balance a cinder block but it wouldn't ride like a round wheel.
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Tireman9
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09/16/08 08:36pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: What is your tire tempature
Dieselgem
Not sure if I completely agree with your information. It isn't clear if you are refering to infared surface temperature or the more important and meaningful internal structure temperature.
Based on the internal air temperature, that I monitor real time, I see my tires run 20 to 40 degrees above ambient. However this is not tire structure which will be about 10 or 20 degrees or more higher. It also is on tires running at 75% of their max load.
Bill h's idea is good. If bill sees a temp increase then you know something has changed
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Tireman9
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09/16/08 08:21pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: What should tire temps be?
Wttemba
Your request for data to use "against" tire mfg. sounds like you have an axe to grind and may not be really interested in the facts.
I have personally measured internal structural temperature in excess of 200F and the subject tire did not fail. However this was an Indianapolis tire that was designed to handle this temperature at the special condition it was designed for. I use this as an example that there are few simple answers to complex questions.
Having said that, I would not want to see temperatures for highway use tires in the 185 to 200 degree range for a variety of reasons.
If you can provide some details and a few facts on the situation you are interested in, I will do my best to provide facts and data.
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Tireman9
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09/16/08 07:48pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: De-winterizing problem
In this case I think it pulls 100% through the hose when you set the 2 switches to "Winterize". garden hose mixes water going through hose with solution in jar. It doesn't take the RV pump more than a couple of minutes to suck a couple of gal in.
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Tireman9
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06/22/08 01:11pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: using a gps system in a class C
Been
running a Garmin 330 for a few years. Just got a Freelander 2130QB and while installing a TPMS I also added a switched 12v outlet to keep power cords out of the way.
http://images.kodakgallery.com/photos4736/6/95/37/46/2/7/702463795605_0_SM.jpg
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Tireman9
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06/22/08 01:05pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: De-winterizing problem
Artie
Were you given the info on how to suck winterizing or sanitizing solution into the system? No need for funnels etc.
This is another example of a good idea but keeping it secret.
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Tireman9
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06/22/08 12:37pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: De-winterizing problem
I also had problems with my new 2130QB. In my case the 3 drain lines under the drawer were pointed out by the service guy when we did the walk through.
RE: Why there is no mention in the manual... In my case I got a 2006 Coachmen manual for the 2008 Freelander and of course the Freelander isn't mentioned in the '06 literature.
I ignored the information from Coachmen " Change the valve position" that gave no on or off indication and eventually figured it out.
In my opinion the unit is great but the attention to detail by the factory is seriously lacking.
Have you noticed the fit of the storage compartment cover in the basement?
I ended up placing a strap around the leg of the table so I didn't have to use a screwdriver to get it out. I also complained enough on the poor fit of the rearmost cover that they are making a new one.
Maybe we need a separate section for Freelander owners :-) cuz I haven't found the Coachmen owners site of much value.
Roger
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Tireman9
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06/22/08 12:32pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Did I just waste $500.00 on new plugs?
Wow $500 for plug change. Maybe you should be looking for a different service shop.
I suggest a quick phone around to a tire dealership that is a company store for one of the majors like Goodyear or Bridgestone Firestone.
The advantage of a company store is the dealer network so you have a large organization that can stand behind the work and you should even be able to go to a different company store if there is a problem with the work. You can't do this with an independant.
If, as you say, your Ford dealer is just running up the charge to get to $500 maybe you should be asking for "New" air in the tires as the "old" air surely has too many miles on it :-)
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Tireman9
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06/06/08 11:31am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Class C Rv mileage
First 1967 miles on our Coachmen 2130QB got 10.6. This includes a trip through WVA to Washington DC then down Shenadoah & Blue Ridge Pkwy.
Return through Smokies with 60 - 70 mph on I77 on the way home.
Did see back to back tanks at 11.5 & 11.7 so I would expect on more normal (flatter) roads and if I keep it to 60 I should see 12+ now that it is broken in a bit.
Our unit is a Chevy Express based van w/ 6.0L engine.
I run 68 psi in my Firestone Transforce and the ride is great.
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Tireman9
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06/06/08 11:17am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: floor mats for chevrolet 06 3500 series chassis
I have a front carpet coming from JCWhitney in a few days for my 07 Express. Will post here when it arrives.
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Tireman9
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05/29/08 10:07pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Class C MPG
Just got baack from 1st trip with our new Coachmen 2130QB w/ 6L Chevy. We did Shenadoa Pkwy Blue ridge and Smokies. Last 2 tanks (which included Smokies) were 11.5 and 11.7 mpg.
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Tireman9
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05/29/08 10:01pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Still another tire question
Mixing tires in a dual application will probably result in one tire carrying more load than the other. It doesn't take much difference to result in a few hundreds of pounds load difference inner vs outer.
Many have mentioned that they have not bothered or been able to get their corner weights so I doubt that any of the readers here have ever done individual tire weights.
Learn how to read the date code on your tires. After the letters DOT there will be a 10 to 12 digit number with letters and numbers. The last 3 or 4 are a date code. 3 if 1999 and first few months of 2000 4 digits if late 2000 or newer.
The last 1 or 2 will be year and the 2 preceding are the week for that year:
349 34th week 1999
1403 14th week 2003
5306 53rd week 2006 Yes you can have 53 weeks because it is based on the Sunday not the number of 7 day weeks
The year should also be about 6 months older than the date your chassis was built unless the tires have already been changed.
Many tire companies suggest a 6 to 10 year max age. Ther is no single date as the rate a tire ages depends on temperature, Sunlight or Ozone exposure and actual usage (load & inflation).
Even a tire parked under cover will age based on temperature and ageing rate doubles for every 10° increase in temperature. An approximation would be 2 years in Phoenix is about the same as 3 in Flagstaff so you can't even go by the state you are in.
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Tireman9
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05/29/08 09:44pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Queen Bed + Short Overall Length?
We selected the Coachmen 2130QB and after our 1st trip are VERY happy. Wife & I have King bed at home so are use to spreading out. Found the Queen OK.
Just an FYI our trip was down the Skyline Pkwy then the full Blue Ridge then the Smokes before returning to Ohio on I77.
with less than 3000 miles on the Odo and not making a major effort we had a tank at 11.5 and one at 11.7 mpg so we expect that on flat road will get 12+ and if we really made a major effort figure 13 is not out of the possibility.
The 2130 QB is on sale now and we got a GREAT deal from the Akron dealer.
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Tireman9
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05/29/08 09:26pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Ft-lbs
I would agree that 220 is a typo. According to the chart at
http://www.raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc14.html
you can see that the strongest bolt is Grade 8. The studs on cars and Light Trucks are going to be in the grade 6 to Grade 8 range.
With many lug nuts being oiled and not really "dry" the spec is 130 Ft-Lb MAX for Gr8
If you apply 220 and don't break anything you have probably damaged the studs and they should all be replaced.
Do you have an address for the publisher that says 220? They may have a potential liability problem in my non-lawyer opinion.
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Tireman9
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04/28/08 08:12pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Plumbing help for Coachmen Freelander
Do you have the "water works" panel? That makes it really easy to fill the tank, use city water, winterize, etc. (If yes, how many control levers are on it...1, 3, 4?)
snip....
I guess you could call coachmen customer service. I have once or twice and they were helpful.
My control panel has 2 switches and that is the only thing reasonably labeled.
The 3 lines under the sink are not labeled but I do know when one of these type of switch os open or closed.
The 2 valves at the hot tank are also not labeled.
If you set your profile to view pictures you can see what I have.
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Tireman9
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04/26/08 06:14am |
Class C Motorhomes
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Plumbing help for Coachmen Freelander
Have a new 2130BQ Freelander and am having problems figuring out the correct valve settings. The Coachmen owner's manual doesn't include pictures of the 08 Freelander and the Dealer's instructions consist of turn the valves the other way than they are now.
Can someone give me the correct settings for each valve for each of the following actions:
Draining all lines and tanks using air pressure applied to fitting D and hot water plug removed?
Filling the main tank and Hot water tank using City Water line to fill with hot water plug installed.
Winterising by sucking antifreeze through fittling D and Hot water plug removed.
If the above are not correct as far as plug D please let me know
http://images.kodakgallery.com/photos4770/6/4/97/67/29/4/429679704605_0_ALB.jpg
http://images.kodakgallery.com/photos4770/6/4/97/65/4/1/104659704605_0_ALB.jpg
http://images.kodakgallery.com/photos4770/6/4/97/8/27/3/327089704605_0_ALB.jpg
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Tireman9
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04/25/08 08:53pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Help - Tire Pressure / Issue
My max tire pressure is 80lbs and my manufacturer says 58lbs --ran the front at 65 and was ready to get it checked for wear or bent, broken parts-set at 58lbs and everything was fine---figure that!!!!!!!!!!?.Maybe the guys and gals that built my RV knew what they were doing from the start.
The Max inflation molded on the tire, along with the associated max load is based on industry standard formulas. When a tire is manufactured there is no way to know what vehicle it wil be used on.
Vehicle manufacturers are responsible for applying a tire placard with the appropriate inflation based on their stated max loading by axle and assumes 50/50 on side to side.
The numbers for a LT225/75R16 for load capacity at 65mph or less from Tire & Rim Association which all the major tire manufacturer's belong to is as follows.
Single 1940#@ 50psi 2060#@55 2190#@60 2335#@65 2440#@70
2560#@75 2680#@80psi
Dual 1765#@50psi 1875#@55 1995#@60 2150#@65 2220#@70
2330#@75 2470#@80psi
If you are going to adjust for operating at 65 to 75 mpy you need to increase the inflation by 10 psi for each of the above loads.
Since it is the air that carries the load and not the sidewall the construction would not normally change the load capacity for a given inflation but might affect the tire durability.
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Tireman9
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04/25/08 08:35pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Seneca Tire Pressure
Retired Tire Engineer,
Our MH came with Goodyear G107 medium duty truck tires that are H rated. According to the Tire & Rim Association load/inflation chart and based on our actual weights (weighed all 4 corners) it appears we could run on much lower pressures, closer to an F rated tire.
My question is, is there any danger running H rated tires at say F rated values or will this damage the tire?
Thanks,
Paul
I know of no reason you cannot run your H Load Range tires at F Load Range inflation as long as you NEVER exceed the load and speed limitations for the tire. BUT I have to wonder why your MH came with H Load Range tires in the first place. I would think that the MH manufacturer would not spend the extra money if F or G would work.
I strongly suggest you contact a Goodyear Company store, not just someone that sells Goodyears and confirm the load capacity of your tires.
A final question. When you weighed your MH were you fully loaded with full gas, water, food, propane, clothes etc. just as you might be while traveling?
One final point to remenber for truck-bus size tires the load capacity and proper inflation need to be adjusted (lower load and higher inflation) for any operation over 65 mph.
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Tireman9
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04/25/08 07:56pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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